| Loc: SE San Miguel Island |
Lat: N34-03.4 |
Long: W120-21.3 |
Last visit: Oct. 2006 |
| Tide/Sun/Moon/WX |
Dist: 0 |
Cuyler Harbor |
WX |
| Chart |
18727 |
San Miguel Passage |
1:40000 |
| Skipper: Dennis Dreith |
Boat:Sancerre |
captdan |
Port: Channel Islands |
| Landing Permit |
Not Required |
National Park Service |
Beauty and History
Cuyler Harbor is spectacular and usually empty. It is to our minds, the most beautiful spot to drop your hook in all the Channel Islands. Its remarkable rock formations, towering cliffs and Prince Island, which lies at the mouth of the harbor make this the only real harbor in the northern tier of islands. That said, most local mariners rarely venture here because of frequent punishing winds and high seas. It's also a bit of a schlep from Oxnard/Ventura.
San Miguel is the rumored final resting place of Juan Cabrillo, who discovered the island sometime around 1540, and died there after an altercation with the Chumash Indians in 1543. (Something about counterfeit chips at the blackjack table.)
While further away from Oxnard/Ventura, and more challenging in terms of navigation than most other off shore destinations, the trip to San Miguel, and Cuyler specifically, is well worth the effort (even considering all of Fagan cautionary comments, which are definitely worth reading).
As this is a fairly large anchorage, chances are great that there will be plenty of room, and very little company to contend with except for the occasional crabber or dive boat.
Approach
There are two possible ways in and out of Cuyler (see chartlet). Our trip to Cuyler was by way of Point Bennett on the North West tip of San Miguel, around Castle Rock, past Simonton Cove and around Harris Point.
That's the long way. It's also the beautiful way.
The top picture shows Nifty Rock in the foreground, the peninsula a bit closer and Hill 485 and Hare Rock in the background. The shoulder of Harris Pt. is at the far right.
Following our route from the north, first identify Harris Point, which is unmistakable due its conspicuous hill, shoulder, and steep cliffs, and 288' Prince Island, which lies approximately a mile offshore at the East side of the anchorage.
Our approach was from the NNW, keeping well off shore. As Nifty Rock and Hare Rock are 250 yards and 300 yards off shore respectively, we kept about 400 yards off shore lining up on Judge Rock (a small black rock near the western end of a sandy beach seen below).
Proceeding between Middle Rock (awash, and visible only at low tide) and a shoal off the point of the anchorage (a little more than 1/2 mile S of Hare Rock), we continued about 200 yards more before making a slight westerly turn.
We dropped a single hook in about 25 feet of water, although we could have run up quite a bit closer to shore and anchored in 15 to 20 feet.
Fagan has an excellent description of this approach in his Cruising Guide, except from a slightly more easterly direction stating "Entrance to the anchorage lies one third of the distance between Prince Island and Harris Point cliffs. Shape your course to stay about 300 yards E of the Harris Point cliffs. Steer for a point somewhat inshore of Hare Rock until you are close to the cliffs" from that point it's similar to the description above.
Part of a prudent sailor's preparation for a journey to Cuyler should include careful study of Coast Pilot and Fagan's Cruising Guide.
Anchoring
While conditions were extremely benign while we were there and allowed us to use a single hook, Fagan cautions that wind and substantial swells can come up suddenly, requiring a second hook, or if conditions deteriorate sufficiently, render this anchorage unsafe. Fagan states "Heavy swells can break in the entrance in rough weather. Entering or leaving Cuyler in these conditions is crazy."
All sailors speak from experience, just not necessarily their own. Even so the consensus among locals is that this can be a very hazardous spot.
Departure (Alternate Entrance)
Departing the anchorage we headed on a course almost due south toward Judge Rock, taking care to avoid the numerous kelp beds. At Judge Rock we turned easter and paralleled the shore, staying about 100 yards off while maintaining a course which took us between the shore and Clover Rock, which was awash.
We continued on a course that kept us between the shore and Prince Island and stayed close to shore until we were abeam of Prince Island and clear of the reef.
Obviously the reciprocal of our departure route could be used as an approach into the anchorage. However, it is a somewhat tricky approach requiring careful avoidance of the kelp beds and keeping well inside of Clover Rock. While one might be tempted to set a course midway between the shore and Prince Island heading straight into the anchorage, this would take you between Middle Rock and Clover Rock, both of which are exposed only at low tide, and may shoal up in between them depending on the surge and swell conditions.
Dangers
Kelp beds abound and there are several small reefs/rocks which are only visible at low tide. In addition, Fagan cautions about a foundation of an old pier at the south corner of the anchorage that should be avoided.
Landing and Facilities
No landing permit is required. However a guided tour with a part ranger can be arranged by calling the Park headquarters in Ventura at (805) 644-8262. You can also contact the ranger on channel 16. Excursion parties generally meet the ranger at 0900 near the four palm trees on the beach.
We did not take the time to go ashore, but next time we will not dawdle and will launch our kayaks. Conditions were superb in the early morning, but we dallied and missed our window.
There are no facilities ashore except for a fresh water spring on the beach. According to our more Cuyler-experienced shipmates, the best place to go ashore is at the NW corner of the bay. These friends of ours were there recently, also in very nice conditions, but found the surf to hazardous to attempt landing their dinghy.
Fagan also cautions that a landing attempt opposite the path to the ranger camp is to invite a dunking.
The curiously out of place palm trees on the beach are courtesy of a movie company that filmed a feature there in the 1920's. Natural vegetation was long ago eaten by ranch animals. The wind has swept the landscape, gouging sand rivers through the terrain, which are most distinctive in aerial photos.
Next trip we plan on spending extra time for kayaking in the harbor, which appears to be excellent.
BTW, we ran into a pod of humpbacks - more accurately - they joined us on our way toward Santa Rosa. Seven (or so) animals including two juveniles.
Updates
If you have new or amplifying information concerning this anchorage or the surrounding area, please contact Capt. Dan. His e-mail link and phone are below.